Got this from AMD at TCCN channel. The actuators get stuck either in 4wd or worse, in between 2 & 4. Once a month put it in 4H and drive for a few minutes and then 4L and drive for a few minutes. That will prevent the actuator from freezing up on you. A must for 4Runners. Great stuff once again brother!! Soli Deo Gloria~
Great job diagnosing Ivan. Anyone else happy to see an owner bring a car with over half a tank of gas.
Ivan, not sure on what to bet on. I guess I'll have to wait for Part 2! Thanks for Sharing! ππ
Ivan, I love how you use a trim tool for everything. And I have loved your videos for a long time.
I'm a semi-retired mechanic love your content from NZ
This cracks me up. I used just get out turn in the hubs and pull a shifter π
I love the methodical way you test the I/O on the modules. and wrie out what you find. Great diagnoses.
Great job, Ivan! A bit confusing problem, but you managed to make sense of it (at first, I thought it was a bad switch). On to Part 2, to clear all doubts π
Now here's a guy that loves a good brain tickling puzzle ! I got dizzy trying to keep up. I hate these 4 wheel drive systems. I had a 1999 suburban that had issues like this 4 runner has. Best I ever got was, it could be this or it could be that. I just sold the stupid thing.
I always manually energize the actuator motor and see if it frees up. Then I will use the interior controls and monitor the voltages at the PINs for switch input/out puts at the module.
I am going to say there is something else wrong in part 2. GREAT VIDEO!
I'm old enough to remember when grabbing the shifter and pulling into 4WD actually meant you where pulling it into 4WD including center diff lock and unlock. I am old.
I vote, yep, it'll fix it. You are thorough and detailed.
The PCB looks to be only a two layer board so tracing circuits is relatively easy if you back light the board. By tracing the circuits you will be able to see what the pins actually do and what type of I/O they are regardless of what the wiring diagram indicates. You will know exactly what each pin does. Using a DMM you should be able to understand all of the module functions and if they are working at the module connector, you should not need to use a test light unless you suspect a high resistance fault in the wiring and connections, which may require a test light but not in the beginning. A 12VDC pull up power circuit for switch to ground feedback control is extremely simple. Either a bad solder joint, a crack in a trace, or a leaky capacitor damaging a trace. To really look closely at the PCB solder joints it is best to use a zoom stereo microscope. You can see small cracks in bad solder joints not visible to the naked eye.
I think you've got the right idea for testing. Is it possible to move the transfer case shaft to see if there's easy movement inside. If the case can be shifted to 2HI, that would be helpful to verify the internals are working. On to part 2.
This Makes me Miss the Ol' "FORD WIGGLE TEST"........ ππππππ The <80's >90's we're so aggravating......π©
On those older Toyotas I've replaced a lot of front axle actuators and transfer case shift actuators.
I know as far as 4x action my 99 J shift is a bit simpler than my 01 which uses this same system. When I had similar issues with my 01 it turned out to be rodents which when preparing for winter had decided to feed a bit on my actuator wiring lol. These are generally pretty rock solid, 9 times out of 10 it's usually something really simple. Fortunately in my case some solder type butt connectors helped me to remedy the very similar issue. This however goes to show that sometimes the process of properly and thoroughly electrical troubleshooting in the hands of a experienced diagnostician is absolutely the way it's got to be handled to get to the root of a component failure like this or so it would seem. Well see I guess, I have a feeling Ivan is right on the money though.
4WD System Outline in "Description and Operation" of ALLDATA gives a decent amount of info amazingly, including voltage/ground PID info.
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